From lardy cakes to simple scones: classic bakes that need no reinvention

The relentless desire to jazz things up is to blame for the disappearance of fond favourites. But there’s always pleasure to be found in old-school cakes

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I got into a small and pointless argument with a friend recently when she announced that a certain bakery chain (expanding across England with astonishing speed) was the only place in her London neighbourhood where she could buy scones. Surely not, I said. Then I thought about where, if I wasn’t going to make my own (pictured top), I’d find them near my own home, and realised she may have a point. (FYI, fellow N1 folks, Quince Bakery always has them on the counter.)

A few days later, I was asked to go on BBC Radio 4 to comment on the decision by Somerset’s Burns the Bread to stop selling iced buns, which naturally made me desperately crave an iced bun. But were there any to be found near me? No. Thankfully, I’ve since realised you can get an excellent example for just £1.60* at Raabs the Bakers on Essex Road in London. But, before this turns into a food guide to my neighbourhood, may I point you in the direction of Ruby Tandoh’s lemon zest-spiked recipe, or Helen Goh’s strawberry finger buns should you also suddenly have a craving for soft, pillowy dough with a crackly smear of sugar on top. Both would be just as good not jazzed up.