Dressed for power: Giorgia Meloni and the language of fashion

Giorgia Meloni and the language of fashion August 18, 2026Often dressing in pastel colors, with wide-legged pants falling over her high heels, Italy's first female Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni can't escape fashion scrutiny — and not only because she's the leader of the world's fashion capital. "Fashion is a language — it tells us what its wearer wants to say without any actual words," Michela Bonafoni, who teaches fashion at Unicollege in Florence, told DW in an interview. "Perhaps what you wear is very close to your personality. But if you want to give a different impression of yourself, you can also do this through clothing — this is what Meloni does constantly," explained Bonafoni. Meloni's clothing style can be read as part of a broader political transition: from outsider to establishment figure. When Meloni became prime minister in 2022, her appearance was closely tied to the political identity she had built as a leader of the right-wing Brothers of Italy party with post-fascist roots. Her look: dark suits with chunky boots, serious and even combative. Enter the concept of "power dressing," which emerged in the 1970s and became influential in the 1980s, as second-wave feminism coincided with more women entering professional and managerial roles. The suit became a way for women to signal authority in traditionally male workplaces. Italian designer Giorgio Armani played a key role — his softer, more fluid tailoring offered a new version of the power suit — borrowing from menswear while creating a more feminine language of authority. During her first official public appearances, Meloni was often seen in dark Armani suits, a nod to traditional power dressing, and a look that said, according to Bonafoni: "I'm here in this kind of government and that's all there is to it." From masculine suits to pastels Since then, Meloni's look has softened — she's often seen in wide-legged silhouettes and suits in cream, beige, pink and other muted or pastel shades. The style change also coincides with how she has become a more established figure in European politics, moving closer to the European Union and becoming a prominent supporter of Ukraine. Yet, Meloni has maintained a conservative approach to domestic politics, which hasn't gone down well with much of the public — including many in the country's fashion industry. No luxury brand, including Armani, publicly stepped forward to style her or support her use of their clothing. This hasn't stopped Meloni from using fashion to appeal to a broader public. "When Meloni understood that many Italians didn't like some of the actions of her government, she started to wear the pastel colors, which incite understanding and say 'I'm Giorgia, a woman who is kind,'" said Bonafoni. The author also points out that Meloni sports "Made in Italy" designers as part of her brand of nationalism — attaching its power to her own. At the Salone del Mobile, Italy's premier design event in Milan this past April, Meloni chose a casual look: jeans and a casual beige blazer. "Her look said: I'm casual because I'm just like you — but I'm also exactly where I want to be right now in this moment and in this government," said Bonafoni. Such a style exudes confidence and is closer to the more relaxed style of female politicians in the US, Bonafoni added. A political 'uniform' But political power doesn't always require a changing wardrobe. For some women leaders, consistency itself can become a form of power dressing. Former German Chancellor Angela Merkel developed one of the most recognizable wardrobes in modern politics. Her formula was remarkably consistent: trousers and a three-button jacket, with the jackets appearing in an extraordinary range of colors. The simplicity itself became a kind of uniform, putting Merkel herself, as a politician, rather than her fashion, at the center. "Her 'second skin' of clothing was very close to her character, her attitudes and political decisions she made," points out Bonafoni. Former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher also had her fashion 'uniforms' so to speak, down pat. Her appearance was carefully constructed — tailored suits, pearls, handbags — an instantly recognizable version of feminine political authority in her era. These days, Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum offers another prime example of a politician who wears clothing to send a message. She frequently wears garments made by women artisans from Mexico to show her support and solidarity with Mexico's Indigenous communities. From hipster dad to tactical wear While the few women politicians we have on the world stage fall under increased fashion scrutiny, men too have long understood the political power of appearance — perhaps now more than ever. Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy often chooses to wear tactical clothing that's far from the standard suit and tie look of most world leaders. As Ukrainian journalist Illia Ponomarenko told Politico in an interview last year, it's part of his anti-elitist message, one that directly confronts the world leaders he meets. "His clothes are basically asking: What are you about? Are you about the business of saving lives, or are you about fancy protocols?" said Ponomarenko. "Even when he meets with kings, he dresses in a way that represents the average Ukrainian involved in this war effort. It's a message to say, 'I've come to the corners of power as a representative of my humble people.'" Similarly, the UK's Labour Party Prime Minister Andy Burnham, whose look has been referred to as "hipster dad," chooses smart-casual styles; T-shirts, polo shirts and trainers. It's a political messaging move that says he's on the same level as the public. As for Giorgia Meloni, Bonafoni expects the world will soon see another style change as she is challenged by far-right politician and former army general Roberto Vannacci. "Meloni has said she doesn't want Vannacci in her government, but her party will need him in a coalition if it wants to remain in power," says Bonafoni. "I'm sure if and when Vannacci challenges her, she will change her style again because she'll have to present herself as someone who's even more powerful." This article was edited by Tenzin Sekhon