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I visited a stunning UK seaside town in autumn and ate the best chips ever
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I visited a stunning UK seaside town in autumn and ate the best chips ever This charming coastal suburb is just an approximately 15-minute bus ride from a major city centre and should be the next addition to your autumn travel plans A coastal suburb located just a 15-minute journey from a major UK city deserves a place on your autumn travel list. Even with the cooler temperatures, a seaside trip is still a brilliant way to unwind and clear your head, and nothing quite compares to the...
I visited a stunning UK seaside town in autumn and ate the best chips ever
This charming coastal suburb is just an approximately 15-minute bus ride from a major city centre and should be the next addition to your autumn travel plans
A coastal suburb located just a 15-minute journey from a major UK city deserves a place on your autumn travel list. Even with the cooler temperatures, a seaside trip is still a brilliant way to unwind and clear your head, and nothing quite compares to the breathtaking views across the water.
Last October, I spent a day exploring Portobello near Edinburgh on a bright but cold day, and I'm annoyed with myself for not making the trip earlier. With a thriving high street packed with independent shops, mouth-watering food options, and superb public transport links, it's a perfect destination if you fancy exploring somewhere a little different.
A quick 15-minute bus journey from the city centre brought us straight into the town's centre, and it was instantly clear that this location had something special about it.
Naturally, our first stop was a bracing stroll along the seafront. The weather was lovely and bright, though cold, but it felt quite refreshing following the hour-long train journey from Glasgow.
Portobello's beach extends for two miles, featuring a Victorian-style promenade and vistas across the Firth of Forth. Being a sunny Sunday morning, it was fairly busy, with plenty of families enjoying walks and dogs happily racing across the sand.
The first aspect that caught my attention about the beach was how spotless it looked. It's obvious that the residents of Portobello, or 'Porty' as it's affectionately known, take huge pride in their surroundings.
I can't help but wish I'd visited during the summer, as it's easy to picture Portobello as a brilliant spot for sunbathing and maybe even a refreshing dip in the sea.
In 2024, Portobello was named the UK's second-best coastal town by JoJo Maman Bebe, and its beach bagged a Keep Scotland Beautiful award, which really proves its charm.
Having worked up quite an appetite after our stroll along the shoreline, we turned our attention to the selection of eateries and pubs lining the seafront, ranging from massive pizza slices at Civerino's to brunch and coffee at The Beach House.
Many of these venues offer outdoor seating, meaning you can dine pretty much on the beach itself — a truly lovely touch.
We went for Shrimp Wreck, a seafood spot boasting a small but enticing menu. This street food stall shot to fame after appearing on BBC's My Million Pound Menu and is well known for its fish finger sandwiches — it even reached the finals of the Birds Eye Fish Finger Sandwich Awards in 2017.
Naturally, I went for the dish everyone's been talking about. The battered flaky fish fillets, mushy peas and quite possibly the best chips I've ever eaten, all tucked into a soft roll, was without doubt the messiest meal I could have chosen — but I wouldn't change a thing.
Next up was a proper wander along the high street where we'd been dropped off by the bus. Tucked just behind the promenade, it was quieter than the beach itself, yet there were still plenty of folk about — and, importantly, plenty of shops open for business.
One of the standouts for me was discovering The Portobello Bookshop, a charming independent bookshop packed to the brim with novels, cookbooks and a whole lot more. The shop itself was bright, welcoming and cosy — exactly the sort of place where you could lose yourself for hours.
They also put on events, including Q&As with authors, so it's well worth checking what's coming up if you're planning a trip.
Cove is another spot not to be missed if you're a lover of a good gift shop. It was absolutely bursting with all kinds of trinkets, from Jellycat toys to candles and shampoo bars, alongside gorgeous cards and irresistible chocolate bars.
Portobello's high street may not be the biggest you'll ever walk down, but it's definitely one of the most charming. There's a solid selection of food and drink spots, pubs and even an Aldi, so you're unlikely to be stuck for choice.
One place we didn't quite get round to, and which I'm already keen to revisit, is the swim centre. Tucked away in Portobello, you'll find a genuine Victorian Turkish bath — one of only 11 remaining in the UK — alongside a gym and fitness studio, making it a firm fixture on my list for next time.
If you've yet to explore Portobello, it really is a brilliant spot for a weekend escape, even as the temperatures begin to drop. Its closeness to the bustling city of Edinburgh makes it an ideal spot for anyone craving a breather from city life, with plenty of food, drink and relaxation on offer.