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Surf's up: How the seafloor shapes breaking waves

Surf's up: How the seafloor shapes breaking waves
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A new study led by surfing scientists at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at UC San Diego revealed the physical relationships underlying a pattern familiar to generations of surfers.

A new study led by surfing scientists at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at UC San Diego revealed the physical relationships underlying a pattern familiar to generations of surfers.
Surf (ORG) the Scripps Institution of Oceanography (ORG)
Originally published by Phys.org Read original →